The first city that ever captured my heart was Paris.

I first came on a Contiki tour on my first trip to Europe in 2012, and then came back with my ex bf a month later on that same Euro trip. I didn’t know the Eiffel Tower sparkled and when I saw it for the first time, I was locked in.

Then in 2015 my family went on a Mediterranean cruise departing from Barcelona, and I convinced my parents to let us stop in Paris for a few days first. A lil layover, if you will.

By this point, Europe was pretty much my only travel interest, and everyone who would listen knew about my Paris obsession. If you walked into my apartment you would find about 25 variations of Parisian decor: not one but two Eiffel Tower-shaped soap dispensers, and Eiffel Tower-shaped cheese grater, paintings, pillows, coffee table books, picture frames. Even I had to admit it was a bit much, but I would still get them for Christmas gifts and hey, I loved Paris, what could I say?

Fast forward to my game-changing travel adventure from November 2017 to May 2018, which I named #peaceplaypassion: “peace” was in Rwanda, “play” in Southeast Asia/Australia, and “passion” — you guessed it — was Paris. On this trip I spent about a month total in my City of Love, and experienced so many different versions: first, I met my friend Court for a few days in the freaking Ritz, which I’m still convinced was a dream. Then I went to a hostel in Montmartre and frolicked around with my new gay bestie Levi. Then my real bestie Carmy came to visit me, we stayed at a cute Airbnb for ants in Belleville, and did up the Parisian nightlife scene as we speakeasy hopped, frolicked, danced on staircases and on the streets. It was awesome.

Then I went away to London, Positano, and Rome (runners up for my “passion” leg) and came back to Paris for the home stretch. As one does, I met a Parisian jazz drummer and spent 10 days frolicking around between jazz clubs, drinking wine along the Seine, exploring the “local” Paris, and falling asleep to the sparkly Eiffel Tower. It was a total fairytale.

That had a rather annoying ending after my trip but in hindsight I can definitely see the charm in experiencing a Parisian heartbreak. The French, amiright?!

Anyway, that’s my little love affair story with Paris! So kicking off 2020 as I was heading into my new #lifein2point0, I was looking at layovers in my flight over to Cape Town. I am all about layovers, you guys. I was contemplating 17 hours in Hong Kong, but then I searched for a multi-destination flight, called up Air France, and badabing badaboom I got myself a 3-day layover in Paris.

This trip for me was about taking back MY Paris without attaching it to anyone else, soaking in my favourite sights, sitting and pondering on cafe terraces, reconnecting and rekindling.

The trip was just what I needed.

It was freezing cold and pretty solo and I don’t think I need to go again as a solo traveller. I feel like I am now as familiar with Paris as I wanted to be. Also Paris is a city for lovers, so everyone I met was a couple, but it is also a world-class tourist destination so at my hostel I met tourists, not travellers (not like in my darling Medellin). But I got to do all my favourite things and discovered the next-level magic of Paris around the holidays.

BUT ENOUGH ABOUT ME! Let’s dive into all the things you need to do in Paris ;)

Stroll everywhere

I was there on a transit strike (the French, amiright?!) so I walked everywhere, but TBH I would choose to walk everywhere anyway. The charm of Paris is found in the little things — its streets and its café terraces with chairs facing outwards, its park culture, the mannerisms of the locals. Check out my World Footprints article about the magic behind the tourist’s Paris!!!

Here’s the route I recommend to tick off the major tourist sights (which, although touristy, are still absolutely magical):

Notre Dame > check out the art stands along the Seine > the Louvre > the magical + manicured Tuileries Gardens > Place de la Concorde, where Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette were executed > continue along the Seine, admire the gold-adorned Pont Alexandre III bridge > continue to Trocadero for a front-row view of the Eiffel Tower.

Speakeasy hop

Parisian speakeasy hopping is a LIFESTYLE. People approach a night of speakeasy hopping like it’s a scavenger hunt. Here are my faves.

Experimental Cocktail Club — somehow always playing the best music. I think this is my #1 fave.
Little Red Door — always switching up their funky cocktail menu.
Candelaria — around the block from LRD, through a taco shop.
Lavomatic — this wins for most creative, through a laundry machine in an operating laundromat (some lady was legit doing her laundry I was like excuse me I’m bar hopping)
Moonshiner — through a pizza place.
Danico — this one was new to me but super funky, through a beautiful leafy restaurant called Daroco in Opera.

Sit on a brasserie terrace

Parisian outdoor cafes are called brasseries, and you will find people bundled up here at all hours of the day, all days of the year. I loved coming in winter and seeing everyone huddled up under the heaters, sipping their coffee or wine depending on time of day (no judgement here), smoking their cigs, engaging in heated convos or just staring broodingly out into space. This is so Parisian to me and I love it.

You’ll find brasseries everywhere but I found it to be especially bumpin’ around Chatelet, or near Place de la Contrescarpe (stroll down Rue Mouffetard too, it’s so cute), or the posh Saint Germain des Pres.

Skip the line for a birds-eye view

Paris is stunning from the ground, but you better believe that this sprawling city with its winding streets, chimney-dotted rooftops, and sparkling Seine River is also magical from the sky.

For this reason, I did an Eiffel Tower summit tour with Fat Tire Tours, and I would definitely recommend this if you are looking for some background info on the city and the iconic buildings that make up the Parisian skyline. You will also get a fun guide to help you navigate this tourist mob at the tower’s base — and best part is you get to skip the line. There’s too much to do in Paris to waste your time standing in line.

Along with the skip-the-link Eiffel Tower tour, Fat Tire also offers bike tours, segway tours (lol PLEASE do this), walking tours, and cruises in major cities across Europe and the United States. I’m excited to share this link with you so you can book through me and I will get a lil cut, at no extra cost to you! Please tell your friends! ;)

Find your favourite patisserie and eat there every day

There is no better way to start a Parisian day than a 1-euro croissant and 2.50 euro fresh squeezed orange juice.

My go-to patisserie in the Latin Quarter.

Walk around with a baguette

One morning strolling around Luxembourg Gardens I counted 4 separate people walking on their own with a baguette. This is the kind of grocery shopping I can get on board with.

Drink wine along the Seine

In the summer months, grab a 3-euro bottle of wine, and soak in the beautiful riverside views. The Seine banks are so peaceful and the water is sparkling.

Chill at a park

Breakfast of champions — fresh-squeezed OJ and freshly baked croissant — at the Luxembourg Garden.

I love Tuileries because of its immaculate design, Eiffel Tower view, white statues, and perfectly lined bushes, but this trip I also fell in love with Luxembourg Garden. It’s so perfectly French, people are out for jogs or picnics, and it’s large and beautiful and less crowded.

No matter which Parisian park you pick, it’s standard to sit in one of the famous sage green tilted chairs, relax, and soak in that sun on your face.

Soak in some jazz

My fave is Baiser Sale upstairs, it’s always bumpin’. Cover is 7 euros. Others are 38 Riv or Caveau des Oubliettes. Caveau de le Hutchette is famous from Lala Land and pretty cool but more touristy, expensive and crowded.

Where to stay

For mid-price range, some desirable areas are Le Marais or Saint-Germain-des-Pres (which is still relatively high because Paris). If you’re ballin’, go for somewhere around the Louvre or Champs Elysees.

For hostels, there aren’t a ton of super central options but there’s a bunch like a 20-minute walk from the centre of the action. I have stayed in a few in Montmartre, as well as the Generator in Canal Saint Martin. These are a bit out of the way but still have fun bars/stuff to do nearby. This last time I stayed at “Young & Happy” in the Latin Quarter, it’s a lively university area, and pretty close to Saint Germain. I crossed the bridge to go bar hopping every night and then walked home and it worked pretty well, and also the street it’s on (Rue Mouffetard) has so many delish crepe spots and is v cute. I think this one would be my #1 hostel reco!

Okay going to stop rambling, I meant to jot down a couple of tips for Paris but ended up telling you my whole life’s story lol. But go because it’s the most magical city in the world, and send me any questions you have! Enjoy, mes amis!