KGALAGADI TRANSFRONTIER PARK: SELF DRIVE SAFARI IN THE KALAHARI!!!
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Guys, I’ve just returned from a self-drive safari in the Kgalagadi, and I literally cannot get over it. 🥲🧡✨
Spanning South Africa, Namibia, and Botswana in the Kalahari Desert, the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park is pure magic. We did 5 days of self-drive safari, staying in SanParks accommodations, plus 2 days at !Xaus Lodge.
As you may know, I work in the safari industry and have been blessed to have been on my fair share, but these self-drive vibes were next level — going at our own pace, on our own agenda, in our own style. Self-catering was also epic, with Matt braaiing, me sipping wine, and keeping our favourite safari traditions alive: coffee stops and sundowners — car-bar edition, because you can only get out at designated camp or picnic stops.
I think it just really reaffirmed how magical it is to be living here in South Africa, how incredible that a place like this exists, and that i can drive here IN A DAY from where I live in Cape Town, and do a week-long safari for the price it would cost me to go to Whistler for a weekend.
The landscapes and the light got me good. Real good. Red sand dunes, dry ancient riverbeds, glistening salt pans, and golden grass savanna. Every day, we were out at 6am sharp and back just before 7pm (park rules!). Golden hours were truly magical — midday gets FREAKING hot (even in October, we hit 35°C).
This is where you come if you REALLY LOVE the bush. Sightings can be sparse, so you appreciate the remoteness and time in nature. The entry point, Twee Rivieren, is a 12-hour drive from Cape Town, 4 hours from the nearest airport at Upington. Nossob is a 7-hour drive (with stops) from Twee Rivieren.
Because the park is so remote, you’re not dealing with the tourist crowds of Kruger. Sometimes we saw a max of 5 vehicles per game drive; the most was probably 6–7 around cheetah and lion sightings. Everyone was super respectful — just true bush people who love the wilderness.
That said, this isn’t a first-time safari for most. There’s no Big 5 — you won’t see elephants, rhinos, buffalo, hippos, or zebra. I would be so shook at the stroke of luck to see a leopard here. But we saw 4 species I’d never seen before: Cape foxes, bat-eared foxes, wild meerkats 🥹, and a family of African wildcat kittens in a tree. Cheetah sightings were insane — 2 kills while the cubs were in training — gut-wrenching to watch, but the way of the wild.
After my Sabi Sands spoils, the Kgalagadi took me a little while to warm up, but once I did, I was hooked, and I already can’t wait to go back.
ITINERARY with my highlights:
1 night: Augrabies Rest Camp Gorge Cottage
Break up the drive with UNBELIEVABLE views of the river & gorge
SanParks accom for only R1650/night 😳
Wildlife: baboons, giraffes, klipspringers, leopard tortoise (watch my reel!)
1 night: Twee Rivieren
Majestic male lion, Cape foxes, bat-eared foxes (!!)
Perfect gateway to the park, and the only place with cell service
2 nights: Nossob
INSANE cheetah action, lion lullabies
Viewing was rough from the roads, tricky visibility as the grass is long. Waterholes are where it’s at
Stay in a Riverfront Chalet (!! trust me)
2 nights: Kalahari Tented Camp
Epic accom but no electricity/fan/AC & VERY HOT
More cutie foxes, giraffes, meerkats, lions, African wildcats in a tree
2 nights: !Xaus Lodge
Pure relaxation & full-board lodge hospitality
Chalets overlooking the salt pan, walks in the dunes, sundowners
Stay tuned for a separate blog post!
1 night: River Place Manor
Set on the Orange River, perfect refreshing stop along the way home
TOP TIPS
This isn’t the Sabi Sands or a zoo — come if you LOVE time in nature; sightings are a bonus.
Do not drink tap water — even boiled it’s very salty.
Camp shops have all the necessities.
Let down your tires — park staff do it for you at Twee Rivieren, Nossob, Mata Mata.
Bring a 3-prong adapter or power bank (or charging cord for your vehicle).
Stay in Nossob Riverfront Chalets if you can. Kalahari Tented Camp was also my fave (though no electricity; bring ice packs or stick wet towels in the freezer)
Bedding and towels are nice but pillows can be a bit hard — bring your own if needed.
No getting out of vehicles except at designated spots. Go all out on your car bar & picnic stop supplies — coffee stops & sundowners are part of the fun! Mugs, goblets, snacks, the works.
Picnic stops can be 2 hours apart; plan and pee accordingly.
No off-roading in the park, so bring your binos or zoom lenses
SanParks is self-catering so stop at Kalahari Spar / Woolworths in Upington to stock up
Daily permit required from the camp reception: park opens 6am, closes 7pm. Must check out/in with permit.
Roads were sometimes smooth, sometimes corrugated, but honestly not too bad! Our Jimny was perfect.
WiFi: main camps offer it (R75 for 500MB), but it’s extremely weak.
