My Dream Italian Road Trip: The Dolomites, Rome, Puglia (Matera, Ostuni, Alberobello, Polignano a Mare)
Couple notes before we dive in…
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Hi friends! I’ve just finished the Italian road trip of my DREAMS and you guys, it was quite simply, MAGICAL. Truly truly truly blew my expectations out of the water and had a couple amazing unexpected favourites as well. I can’t wait to share my tips with you so you can all put it on your bucket lists and experience this heavenly place on earth for yourselves!!! Buckle up because I have a LOT to share with you!!
Now let me start off by saying this isn’t the ULTIMATE Italian road trip; I have already been to the country a few times and have visited some spots that I would probably want to include if I were recommending the country as a whole (like Positano/Amalfi Coast, maybe Venice or Florence). This road trip I did was based up of places I haven’t been but were on my bucket list, plus a stop in Rome because it was on the way and well, it’s Rome.
ROAD TRIPPING
We flew into Venice, rented a car from Drivalia (which was a bit of a nightmare tbh because it was away from the airport and we couldn’t find the shuttle so attempted to walk/got a 12 euro taxi, not my most savvy travel moment, but anyway) and renting a car was probably the BEST thing we could have done for this road trip. It was an absolute necessity for our first destination, the Dolomites, and made the rest of the trip so much more enjoyable and easy. Only problem was the cost (25-35 euros a day for parking in Rome, but Matera, Ostuni, and Polignano had free parking just outside of old town so like a 10 min walk with your bags!) And fuel costs of course but overall, the longest drive day was 8 hours (Dolomites-Rome) which felt easy breezy on a straight highway, and it was just so nice to have the car and go at our own pace and schedule.
My route went like this:
3 nights: Dolomites
2 nights: Rome
1 night: Matera
2 nights: Ostuni
3 nights: Polignano a Mare
Honestly this timing was FREAKING PERFECT. Only thing I would have loved was more time in Ostuni because that was my most delightful surprise of the trip, I was not expecting it to be so vibey and trendy and I defs could have spent more time there (in particular, to have another round of my favourite pasta at Il Posto Affianco..). Other than that, nailed it.
GENERAL ITALY ROAD TRIP TIPS
Not all gas stations take cards for self service or were even open, some give you a code to use, it was weird. Just ask the attendant for help lol
As mentioned, rent a car for the ultimate freedom and flexibility! You can return in a different location than you rented for which is really nice and it wasn’t even that expensive (I think R8000-9000 for the whole trip, sorry I booked in ZAR!)
This time of year (June) was fricken HOT (in the south. Dolomites in the north was cold). But this route and time of year meant that days went up to 37 degrees celsius so we just took advantage of early morning light and lack of crowds, venturing out in the early hours and leaning into European life with afternoon siestas (everything closes from 3-7pm anyway)
As I mentioned, a lot of places close or don’t serve food from 3-7. Another struggle was trying to get breakfast at 11 — places stop serving breakfast at 10:30, and lunch doesn’t start till 12, so in the middle you’re basically hooped. I also struggled with the breakfast in general because I am not a pastry gal and that made up most of the menus. I found it tricky to get my health dose here and was craving a proper smoothie/salad but I am NOT complaining about daily pasta/pizza/focaccia/gelato!!!
THE DOLOMITES
The Dolomites had been towering near the top of my bucket list for quite awhile, and wow wow wow I shed a tear upon arriving in this place. Truly BREATHTAKING. Sooo much of it reminded me of the Rockies where I’m from in Canada, but these mountains seemed staggeringly higher, the roads are narrow tight bends that hug right against the cliffside and all you see is pure cliff face, the unique craggy mountain formations are just SPECTACULAR.
And these mountains serve as backdrop to storybook-esque rolling green hillsides dotted with cows, horses, goats, and adorable little tyrolean-style homes. If I’m going to be completely honest and picky, the one thing I didn’t LOVE about the dolomites was that it did feel more German/austrian to me than Italian, from the buildings to the restaurants where the waiters are dressed in lederhosen and the music, to the font all over the towns (I’m a big font girl). It’s not my personal fave (although my background is German, lawl), I found the rooms a bit stark and well I just love the Italian charm that oozes through the rest of the country. But the dolomites weren’t about that but THAT’S OKAY!!
WHERE TO STAY
Ok this was a big thing, and I am so so happy to with the location I ended up with in La Villa, because it really is essential to stay central here as both days we drove 1.5 hours in either direction for our daily adventures.
I stayed in Hotel Cristallo - Wellness Mountain Living, chosen with the sole criteria of having a mountain-view infinity pool 😝 I loved it for its location, infinity pool overlooking a little village and the mountains that turn pink at sunset, and the wholesome view out my patio that overlooks a little meadow where the cute horses are grazing. The breakfast was absolutely UNREAL and had literally EVERYTHING — I’m talking a mimosa station, two flavours of fresh infused water, a separate pitcher of fresh coconut water, a literal juicing station for you to pick your own veggies, and of course every pastry/fruit & yogurt/regular breakfast stuff. Sadly I didn’t get to fully indulge as we wanted to get up early every day and just made sandwiches to go (which were btw delicious and such a gamechanger for refuelling during the day’s adventures). I will say the hotel’s interior didn’t totally tickle my fancy (the rooms were quite… stark. Minimalist, I suppose, tyrolean, but just like wooden plank rooms, beds had separate duvets lol, etc) but I think I’ve been spoiled because African safari hospitality is literally the most elite ever. But overall a lovely stay!!
>>> Browse Dolomites accommodations here <<<
WHAT TO DO
My absolute fave was hiking Adolf Munkel Weg to Geisler Alm, about a 1.5-2 hour hike each way, through beautiful forests, past a trickling creek, past crazy steep craggy mountains and through meadows dotted with buttercups and dandelions. The destination is an adorable chalet where the mountains/forests open up to reveal beautiful meadows and the insane mountains in the background. You can chill on the chairs on the hillside, gaze at the view, head onto the chalet patio for a bite and an aperol spritz, it is truly AMAZING and I absolutely loved this morning!!!!
After Adolf Munkel we kept driving to climb allll the way up the mountain to Seisler Alm, where the mountains plateau out into meadows, rolling hills home to grazing horses, and a ski village. Had a bev at a mountain at the very top called Tschötsch Alm, which was quite blustery but had an incredible view!
Visiting Tre Cime is a must as these towering peaks are an iconic site of the Dolomites, and this whole scene was absolutely BREATHTAKING. Note that it is a 30 euro per vehicle entrance fee and the line up by the afternoon when we left was super long, honestly probably about 2 hours, so I would time this in early morning or at least a weekday if you can! You can drive up to the top and walk 15-20 minutes to the monestary and viewpoint, and there are also trails all over these mountains that I am sure are amazing and would love to do if I had more time.
The lakes were also MAGICAL. My favourite surprise with Dürrensee, a turquoise blue lake about 20 minutes down the mountain from Tre Cime with the mountains as the lake’s backdrop, it is truly STUNNING and I especially loved it because there were no crowds around, it felt like a private Caribbean beach but on a lake in the dolomites!
Just down the road we stopped at Toblacher See, which didn’t leave me in awe like Dürrensee but is still lovely and totally worth a stop just off the road! Also some cute cafes for a drink or bite.
Lago di Braies was also sooo beautiful, reminded me so much of the Canadian Rockies with its turquoise water, lush forest, and mountainous backdrop. It’s a popular spot so there were lots of people but it is just breathtaking and I had some pizza at a nice little lakefront bistro called Emmas.
All throughout the Dolomites you will find cute little mountain towns, my favourite is Cortina D’Ampezzo (reel here), it’s adorable, has a little old town with restaurants and shops (even big shops like Patagonia, so if you need anything I’d get it here), the view across the valley is GORGEOUS, and it’s the site of the 2026 Olympic Games with Milan!! Would defs stay in Cortina for a future trip.
TIPS FOR VISITING THE DOLOMITES
Defs rent your own car! Don’t know what you’d do here without it. I saw a bus literally get stuck on one of the hairpin bends.
That being said, know that the driving here is a lil sketchy. Tight turns, steep roadside drops, single lanes where traffic runs in both directions so sometimes you have to essentially pull into a meadow or a cliff to let the cars come through. It’s pretty wild actually. :| Drive carefully!
The Dolomites are at a high elevation and therefore chillier than the rest of your Italian road trip (which makes packing tricky!) — I literally brought a puffer jacket, big boots, and nikes to hike in. Wore these in the Dolomites and then they sat in the car the rest of the trip but whatyagonnado
Like I mentioned, I think staying somewhere central is key to get the full dolomites experience and explore both sides — Tre Cime/Cortina to the east and Adolf Munkel/Seilser Alm to the west!
ROME
From the Dolomites we drove 8 hours to Rome, this was partly a stopover to break up the road trip cause I really wanted to go south, and partly because Rome has always been one of my favourite cities and I will absolutely never pass up a stop here!
Rome is INSANELY busy with crowds EVERYWHERE and my visit here in June was VERY HOT AND UNCOMFORTABLE, but that being said, Rome is just SUCH a vibe. Its landmarks are truly something else, incredibly ruins and buildings around every corner, the streets are absolutely buzzing, the orange and yellow and red buildings are just so charming, it’s just a magnificent city.
WHERE TO STAY
One of the things I love about Rome is it is sooo walkable! You can likely stay within a 20-30 minute walk of most attractions. Monti is a cool local area where I have stayed before, but this time I stayed in Trastevere and in my opinion this is the coolest area in Rome, its little alleys and outdoor patio restaurants are SO cute, it is SUCH a vibe, I just want to take pictures everywhere and I love it. Head over to the streets around Piazza di Santa Maria for twinkling lights and people out chatting, drinking, eating, buzzing into the late hours no matter what day of the week.
This trip was a vacay and some spots we splurged, some spots we saved — Rome was a saver, knowing we’d spend no time in the room, so found a perfectly lovely 1 star hotel in Trastevere called Hotel Carmel which actually had a gorgeous terrace and was just fine! Loved its location right outside the Trastevere vibes as well.
>>> Browse Rome hotels here <<<
WHAT TO DO
Walk and see the sights! As I mentioned, everything is super close. Do a self-guided (or guided if you prefer) walking tour of the Colosseum/Roman Forum (go in if you haven’t seen them yet!), stroll over to the “wedding cake” building, then make your way along the streets to Trevi Fountain (toss a coin or 3 in if you can elbow your way through the crowds), get a gelato (essential), go see the Spanish Steps, and end in Piazza Navona, which is my personal favourite, especially at sunset. Magical energy here.
Stroll around Trastevere, mosey along the River Tiber (there is also a summer festival with markets and pop-up restaurants), if you have time go to the beautiful park Villa Borghese, or do a little day trip to Quartiere Coppedè for its whimsical fantasy architecture!
Visit the Vatican if you haven’t yet and have more time, do allll the shopping (adorable Italian leather shops, linen shops and your standard shopping along Via del Corso) and mostly importantly, eat eat eat. :)
WHERE TO EAT/DRINK
I love the carbonara at the restaurant Osteria delle Coppelle, and a fun lil secret is you can go through the wardrobe at the back of the restaurant to enter a vibey little speakeasy called Club Derriere!
Rooftops: Oro Bistrot with a gorgeous view of the Victor Emmanuel II National Monument (the “wedding cake”), Terrazza Borromini along Piazza Navona for breathtaking views of Rome just outside Piazza Navona, or a cool local spot in Monti called Spritzeria
Other than that, I’m more about the vibes than a foodie; there are adorable restaurants all over the streets of Rome, I would just pick a terrace that’s calling you and enjoy!
PUGLIA
Puglia made up the bulk of this Italy trip, and I can’t believe I have barely even heard of it before. Puglia is down at the southern region of Italy, the heel of its boot, famous for its olive groves, olive oil, long coastline, hilltop towns, quaint ancient towns, and being less crowded than its neighbours to the west it is an AMAZING alternative to the Amalfi Coast. We discovered so many unique gems that truly make me fall in love with this area!
>>>> Browse all Puglia accommodations here <<<<
MATERA
After the Dolomites and Rome, we visited the mind blowingly magical hilltop town of Matera, well known for being the site of the last James Bond film, No Time To Die.
Like I literally made this reel on the same steps Daniel Craig drove a motorcycle over.
Matera is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is truly stunning, the views here are just unbelievable.
I only stayed one night and ended up switching accommodations from 5 Elementi Sassi Matera, which is super nice, beautiful modern finishings, but make sure confirm you get a room with a view — cause that is what Matera is all about! Ended up moving to another hotel called Dimora Santa Barbara and that did have an AMAZING view!! Valley, caves, town, the whole shabang.
>>> Browse Matera accommodations here <<<
My Matera visit was extremely short, but I would like to passionately recommend the following:
Stay anywhere with a view
Aperol Spritz at Quarry Lounge Terrace
Orecchiette (ear-shaped pasta the region is famous for) with a view at Osteria La Vigna del Mare, and the house white was quite delish if I do say so myself!
I didn’t stay for long enough and also it was way too scorching hot but I would have loved to have gone hiking over by the caves across the valley, views must be INSANE.
OSTUNI
You guys, I have to say… Ostuni was my FAVE.
The entire road trip was amazing, but I kinda expected every place to be amazing, and Ostuni was the place that I would say really exceeded my expectations. I knew it would be a beautiful whitewashed hilltop town, but what I did not expect was it to be such a VIBE. It is super trendy and buzzing and has its own unique character which I LOVED to see. A lot of European old towns can start to blend together, but Ostuni is doing its own thing and I absolutely LOVED my time there and wished I had more of it!!
Ostuni’s vibe is that it has made the absolute most out of all of its narrow winding space on its hilltop alleys. The restaurants have spilled their seating out onto the sidewalks in creative ways, with tables and chairs dotting the alleys, to pillows set on staircases for people to sit on (surprisingly comfy!), to BEANBAGS EVERYWHERE which is literally SUCH a vibe. Like the main square isn’t even the spot to be, it’s the vibey little side streets where it’s all happening. And everything (including my accom) was like a 2-4 minute walk from each other, which is suchhh a win.
WHERE TO EAT/DRINK
I instantly became OBSESSED with a few spots in Ostuni.
Borgo Antico is the most Instagram- famous restaurant there, with tables set up the zig-zag lanes. It is pretty epic I’m not gonna lie, but defs fills up, and is closed on Tuesdays!
My personal favourite spot was Bar Perso , where I sat for more than one or two spritzes (so delish). There is seating stacked up the staircase but I loved sitting on the hightop table and chairs for the view of the olive fields stretching out to the sea. Epic sunset spot!
Gabo is a gorgeous leafy oasis with a secret hidden terrace with amazing views of the town and landscapes
The best pasta I had all trip was at Il Posto Affianco, where I got the vegetable orecchiette pasta with baked cheese bowl. Like I’m drooling thinking about it.
WHERE TO STAY
Along with the vibey seating on the buzzing side streets, Ostuni’s other USP is its accommodation: caves. Caves with grottos.
I stayed in Panta Rei which was probably one of the most OTT places I’ve ever stayed and I was HERE for it. Literally had its own grotto, the whole bathroom was steamed up like when you walk into an indoor pool, the shower was built into the cave, the entire cave suite was so kitted out with snacks, wine, Prosecco, cold drinks, snacks, free laundry, everything you could ever want. And its location could NOT be beat.
>>> Browse Ostuni accommodations here <<<
ALBEROBELLO
One morning we drove 30 minutes from Ostuni to the magical UNESCO World Heritage Site Alberobello, famous for its conical huts called trulli. I’ve never seen anywhere like this!
We went early to beat the crowds/heat/get some gorg lighting and I’m so glad we did. Really my only reco here is to stroll the streets, take in the sights, take pics, pop into the little artisan shops (leather, linen, pasta, etc). There is a rooftop called Terrazza Panoramica (a good central spot to start your exploring) where you have to buy something from the shop (a bevvy will do) to access their rooftop for a view of the huts from above.
I made this reel which is one of my faves from the trip, make sure to listen for the sweet sounds of bells, birds, and footsteps. SO PEACEFUL! Here are some snaps:
POLIGNANO A MARE
Polignano was probably the spot I was most excited for, after the mountain vibes in Dolomites, city vibes in Rome, and ancient hilltop towns of Matera, Ostuni, and Alberobello we were finally ending our dream Italian road trip by the SEA!
WHERE TO STAY
I must say I absolutely nailed the accom for this one. Polignano is famous for its one beach called Lama Monachile, it’s a small quintessential Italian beach framed by cliffs and dotted with multi-coloured towels and umbrellas. I found a hotel with a terrace that looks right onto this beached was like LOOK NO FURTHER, WE’RE BOOKING THIS. The hotel is called B&B Prestige and I would absolutely 1 million percent stay here again for the view alone.
>>> Browse Polignano a Mare accommodations here <<<
WHAT TO DO / WHERE TO EAT
Polignano a Mare is super cute, its town is pretty standard cute euro old town vibes except Polignano has little poetry scripts on the walls throughout the town and it is set up on some beautiful cliffs, just being by the sea was so amazing here. We did go down to the main beach Lama Monachile (reel here) which was packed like sardines, a quintessential Italian experience but not exactly what I’d call relaxing you know.
It was so nice just strolling through the town, going out to the cliffs, had a lovely drink at the terrace on Aquamarea and ate out at a few other places in town, but our fave was the focacceria called Focacce Memorabili (I got a veggie one with zucchini and peppers it was so so good went back and got it again the next day)
Polignano’s most famous restaurant Grotta Palazzese (reel here) nearly made me fall off the cliffs in shock because while I did pay the 150 euro deposit and did read that it was expensive, I did not look at the menu and did not realize that that meant 196 EUROS MINIMUM PER PERSON (not including drinks etc). Guys I live in ZAR life in South Africa now, 196 is robbery. The cave vibe was pretty cool though I cannot lie.
Anyway, that is the gist of my Italian road trip, I could not be more grateful or have had a better time — and this trip was a little extra special as some of you have already seen from my hard launch reel! ;)
Have any questions about this trip or other travels? Comment below or email me!
