Getaway to Gisenyi
smeagled away from Kigali for a couple days of r&r this week. the PINNACLE of my peace journey.
the east side of Rwanda is flat and grassy like a savanna and has Akagera Park, which is home to elephants, giraffes, baboons etc. the west side, bordering the Democratic Republic of Congo, is more mountainous, green, jungle-y. on this border is Lake Kivu, which has a mix of high end resorts and rural Rwandan villages, like the one we went to called Byumba.Tommy and i took a 4-hour-turned-6-hour bus ride to a village on Lake Kivu called Gisenyi (renamed to Rubavu). i wanted to nap but the views were too freaking stunning. there are people EVERYWHERE carrying huge bowls of fruit or stacks of grass/bamboo on their heads, sitting staring at the cars passing by, working on their crops. some kids were playing slip and slide in a mud puddle. there is ALWAYS something to look at. i’m obsessed with the banana trees, they make everything look so tropical. every section of land along that road is farmed - carrots, cabbage, cucumbers, rice, tea, coffee, avocados, mangos, etc etc. they have not wasted ANY land - like unless it is a vertical rocky cliff, it has crops on it.
about 10k from our destination our driver pulled over and got out of the bus because the Tour du Rwanda bike race was coming up on that road. we got out and soon realized that we were more exciting to the kids in this village than waiting for the race; we were surrounded within a minute. the kids just stare, suss us out from head to toe, shyly smile and say “hi” back to us. one is usually brave enough to step up and say “what is your name. mine is (insert 12-syllable name that i cannot pronounce).” then the rest of the kids all giggle. i’ve been trying to pinpoint the kind of excitement that i’m seeing in these kids, and my best comparison is if you suddenly spot Leo Dicaprio (or your preferred celeb) and he makes direct eye contact and waves at you. it’s that level of giddiness.Tommy and i know we could be waiting for the bikers to pass forever so we eventually start walking, passing many kids who say: “good morning!” “how are you i’m fine” “give me money” and sometimes “i am hungry”. they are not begging, these are the words they’ve been taught. we’re about 30 mins and 4 blistered feet in when the bikers have passed and our bus is back on the move; it pulls over on the side of the road to pick us up again. perks of being the only white people in a 100 km radius, your bus will have no trouble spotting you! the passengers are all excited to see us and get up so we can have our original seats back. so so nice.
in Gisenyi we stayed at Hakuna Matata lodge on Lake Kivu, at a discount thanks to manager Pascal - THIS PLACE IS HEAVEN. everyone must go here!!! easily the most peaceful place i’ve ever been - palm trees, tropical birds (my faves are the yellow one and the black one with a red beak and a mullet), large clean modern rooms with a king sized bed and mosquito net that doesnt suffocate your face when you sleep (a true luxury), unobstructed views of the immaculate gardens and the lake. i was sitting on the balcony looking out at the lake and the only sounds i heard were soft waves against the shore, and the wind beneath the birds’ wings as they flew by. 12/10 bliss.
there are often fishing boats on the lake, including ~10 longboats that go out when it gets dark and stay out till 8am fishing with their lanterns. across the lake is Congo which i am obsessively intrigued by because it is a wild wild jungle - not quite Rwanda-safe let’s just say that. the Congo border is like 100m from a cute/delish cafe we went to 3 times, Calafia (amazing smoothies, salads and sandwiches).Tommy and i walk through the village along the lake and get caught in a downpour as per usz, i have some liquor labelled “vodka” which i’m pretty sure was gin. being tipsy in Rwanda is such a trip because you get to be your friendliest self and everyone is so happy to say “hi how are you i’m fine” back.
^^ spreading some Canadian love with some new pinswe went to Palm Beach restaurant for a 2 hour wait for dinner. go there for the ambience, not the prompt service. we were in bed by a glorious 9pm.
next day we are treated with fresh fruit, omelettes & crepes for breaky, then head down to get our tan on (or burn on, for a sunscreen-less Tommay) and go swimming just off the lawn. i almost drown from loling at his “butt paddle” swim which consists of him swimming with his booty popped up above water. i have to look away so i can calm down the lols. he also demonstrates the sidestroke, which didn’t quiiite make the olympics. it was delightful except i found out when i got back that swimming in Kivu is like a 99% guarantee that you’ll get a parasite, which you have to take a pill for in 3 months. a detail Tommy conveniently withheld from me. i’m fine! everything’s fine!
Tommy has to go back to coach swimming to we do a quick Gossland swap and Christine joins me for more (actual) vodka along the lake, carbonara for dinner, and amazing theraputic life conversations. she is the best and has been such a key part of my peace here.
the next day we read on the lawn and do a quick workout followed by another parasite-y but refreshing swim. moto to Calafia and then are frantically ushered onto a bus on its way out; which means we are stuck with the smelliest stuffiest backrow seats. Rwandans don’t smell what we smell and get cold in the wind. we BEG for people to open their windows, Christine tells them the wind is good for the woman with a baby in front of us; she tells them she would know, she has 4 babies lol. they were all bundling up at any tinge of wind. eventually they give in and give us a window seat near the front - persistence pays off, folks!
back to Kigali for some weekend nightlife feelin’ refreshed, relaxed and really quite thrilled that i finally have my African base tan!