Volcano Vixen takes on Nicaragua
do you guys like my new nickname? volcano vixen? too much?
anyway!
just finished 10 loco days in nicaragua. it’s been a whirlwind of volcano adventures, new friends, alcohol, shuttles, and jungles. i didn’t fall in love with this country like i did with guatemala, but honestly that’s a relief because one might say i fall in love too easily while travelling (like, with the country).
that reminds me — after a 12-hour shuttle from Antigua i arrived in El Tunco, El Salvador. it was strange. super tourist-driven little surf town, rockiest beach that you couldn’t sit or barely walk on (where was i supposed to catch my sunrises/sunsets?), but some cool restaurants and bars, and a pretty good barefoot vibe. a good place to go if you like surfing or surfers. anyway!
i left the love of my life Carmen in El Tunco, and onto Nicaragua i went! here’s a recap:
Volcano boarding in Leon
so when i first decided on travelling central america, i was like “i wanna immerse myself in the jungle, do sunrise hikes, yoga on the lake, see a sloth, go volcano boarding...”
but why, that last one, though?
unlike every one of my fellow canadians, i don’t snowboard. i’m fine with heights but not like obsessed, and i don’t like the drop in your stomach that comes with a steep sharp decline. but somehow my bucket list called for volcano boarding, so i went to Leon, which is known for it.
i stayed at Bigfoot again (love ya Tim) and explored the hectic little town that reminded me so much of Havana. got a sandwich at pan & paz every morning, explored the cathedral, made bff with Nick and Jameson from Florida and Bailey and Rio from Colorado, and danced on tables and chandeliers anytime music would play.
volcano boarding was scarier, and then more enjoyable than i thought. you carry your gear (orange jumpsuit and board) up the 1.5hr hot sweaty hike, and the view is obviously beautiful because you’re on a black volcano, with stripes of suplur and magnesium, and all around the volcano is lush greenery. but as we went up, up, up, the slope was concerning me. our AMAZING guide Santa from Bigfoot said it was a 45 degree slope, but it looked pretty vertical to me. i was actually soo anxious looking down, especially when we got to the top, but i was obviously going to do it so i was like you know what kellie suck it up and it’ll be over in 45 seconds.
so i got on my board and pushed off, but it was actually surprisingly pleasant! i was happy to be able to steer and keep my balance, and i actually had a moment while i was whipping along to take in the moment and think: wow i am really sliding down a volcano right now. soak this in. i clocked in at 41km/hr, which didn’t compare to our record breaker sebastian’s 91/hr, but i was quite content!
Bigfoot is the only way to go for volcano boarding, by the way — they’re the OGs and have the fastest boards. my friends went with a different company and asked for a refund they went so slow.
the most magical part of Leon were sunsets at the beach, which we reached by a 30-min shuttle ride with Bigfoot. the beach was so misty, mystical, the waves were crashing, the drinks flowing, it was so fun. big points to nicaragua <3
quick stop in Granada
i think Granada was actually my fave lil town! it reminded me of TRINIDAD in Cuba, which i LOVE — colourful buildings, cobblestone streets, horses and carriage, lively vibes but not like hustle-y. it felt more open and breathable than Antigua and the central colonial square was literally stunning. stayed at Oasis Granada which was peaceful and adorable and such a necessary recharge for me.
went to Lake Apoyo which was beautiful and SO WARM, i would recommend staying at Paradiso. but the big attraction was Masaya Volcano — yet another volcano experience that exceeded expectations and blew my mind. we got there just as the sun was settled and you can see the lava boiling down in the earth and the bottom of this striking crater. it was like slow motion and so mesmerizing, and gives a lot of perspective on this crazy amazing planet.
Sunday Funday
okay this party has been talked about by anyone who’s been to nicaragua, so we had to go to San Juan del Sur for Sunday Funday. it’s a pool party crawl that starts at Pachamama and then shuttles you up to Naked Tiger and ya it was a gongshow and i guess that box got checked off!
San Juan del Sur is actually so picturesque. it’s surrounded by beautiful green hills and has a long stretch of sand with a bay dotted with boats. it reminded me of Koh Phi Phi but with 0.001% of the tourists. slow season in Central feels like a ghost town sometimes! the beach is lined with pricey bars with subpar food but epic views, and the street behind has some cool surf shops and cafes. Barrio Cafe is a good spot. i stayed at Casa Oro which was pretty nice, chill, surfer vibes.
Ometepe
this place is one of a kind, and a weee bit of a challenge. it’s an island on a lake with 2 volcanoes — Conception is active, Maderes is dormant — and a whole lot of flora and fauna. animals line the streets, from horses to cows to pigs, chicken, of course dogs. most of the land is harvested into crops and properties centre around “perma-culture”, which is a sustainable form of agriculture that focuses on efficiency and maximizing space. eg. the coconut trees are tall and wide and can’t be planted too close together, so coffee trees are planted to fill the space between their leaves. when mangos aren’t in season, starfruit are, so there is always some type of food to sustain the people living off the land.
we spent 1 night in Zopilote (not my jam) and then moved to a luxurious jungle paradise of Selvista Guesthouses, both perma-culture farms where you eat fresh food from the farm for breakfast.
Selvista is a tranquil jungle retreat and i would recommend it for couples or people who are looking for some peace and quiet in nature!
hiked 1.5hrs to the waterfall, and then did the Concepcion hike which i would NOT RECOMMEND LOL. guys. it was hectic.
it’s over 4 hours straight up, about 8 in total, through sweaty humid jungle and then loose volcanic rock and then just rocky volcanic rock. like no trail, just rocks falling everywhere. it was neverending. i hated it tbh lol. fell down on my way down, started crying, have a massive bruise to prove it. silver lining: a great workout?
ometepe is pretty spread out and transport is expensive (like $20usd to and from Balgue and ferry terminal) so renting a scooter is advised, but the roads suck so actually renting a motorbike is advised. also it’s a lot of trekking up 10-minute driveways into the jungle.
but ya! that’s a wrap on nicaragua and i think i’m good on volcanoes for a bit!
